New Fork by TRB Was Not What I Expected

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If you've only got a limited time to explore Beijing's best restaurants, then a visit to Fork by TRB has got to be on your list. Fork is the latest addition to the TRB Hospitality Group, which also owns TRB locations Hulu and Peach – both of which are renowned for offering excellent food with a personalized touch.

The new Fork is no exception.

Now, I don't know why I was expecting Fork to be similar to Hulu. That was definitely my mistake. Fork is unlike any of its sister restaurants. It's unique, offering its own interpretation of global fusion that seeks to blend together highlights from different cultures.

There are dishes like the classic French escargot (RMB 98) and the Southeast Asian flavors of Tom Yum Kung seafood (RMB 158), as well as Fork's own spin on the classic Beijing stinky tofu (RMB 78) made with Yunnan shiping tofu and blue cheese, and which tastes unlike anything you've ever experienced – the perfect blend of Asian and European flavors and one of our favorites from the meal.

Hidden away in Yangfang Hutong, by Houhai, Fork is behind the (also) new Peach by Hulu, where Pink Rabbit once was. For those who had a chance to visit Pink Rabbit before it closed, the interior of Peach by Hulu is still rather similar, but with a more elegant and refined feel to it instead of the previous party vibe. But the iconic pink rabbits on the rooftop remain, perfect for ushering in 2023, the Year of the Rabbit!

Before jetting off for Chinese New Year holiday, we hoped to find somewhere for a girls lunch away from the families and the kids. Fork was the perfect place.

“Good choice, this one is my favorite,” restaurant manager Kyle said for a surprising number of dishes we ordered. He's passionate about the restaurant and proud of the excellent menu that they've created, and it shows in the way he talks about each dish and the pride he takes in presenting them. And there were multiple dishes that really helped elevate our lunch into a whole dining experience.

Wheeling out an entire leg of 48 months Iberico ham (RMB 298), Kyle took the time to explain how it's aged and kept. And as each dish came out his eyes just kept lighting up like those of an excited kid eager to show off his cool new toys with friends. Even through his mask, you could see him smiling for ear to ear.

The razor clams (RMB 68) were some of the best I've ever had. This Asian-inspired dish is served cold and covered with a generous spoonful of Fork's own XO sauce blend and garnished with spring onions. Don't be fooled by the one-bite size of these razor clams. They pack such a strong flavor that it's like an umami explosion in your mouth.

Making its way over from the TRB menu is gravlax (RMB 158). The in-house cured salmon has been a TRB signature since 2012. Covered with a thick layer of fennel, the salmon is wheeled out, plated tableside, and finished like a Jackson Pollock.

For seafood lovers, the salt-baked sea bass (RMB 428) is a must-try (and another one of Kyle's favorites). It's an incredibly fresh whole sea bass completely encrusted in a salt pastry crust (that you're not suppose to eat, as Kyle stressed to us multiple times) and baked for about three hours. This preparation method infuses the flavors of the light seasoning into the fish while preserving its natural juices. And of course, watching Kyle unveil the fish at your table is like watching the foodie version of an unboxing video on YouTube.

Finally, finishing off our long lunch was a dessert that was both delicious and creative.

My toddler is learning about shapes right now and this would have blown her mind! The appropriately red Chinese New Year-looking dessert virtually took up our entire table, and we ended the meal on the most amusing (and tastiest) shape matching game I've ever played.

So what makes Fork so different from the other TRB restaurants? It's got the same excellent fine dining experience as TRB Forbidden City, the secluded privacy that TRB Hutong offers, and the freedom to choose your entire menu the way you can at Hulu. In a way, this new baby in the family is a mix of the best aspects of its sister restaurants.

Pro tip:
Fork by TRB has an incredible value-for-money wine list. According to Kyle, if you can find their wines at another restaurant for a cheaper price, “Drinks are on me!” They've got this and other similar fun promotions for members.

To make a booking at Fork, add their reservation account on WeChat at trbreservation and be sure to ask to join their WeChat group to be among the first to find out about their latest promotions and deals.

Find it:
9 Yangfang Hutong, Xicheng District
西城区羊房胡同9号花间堂后海酒店
Tel: [phone]

Which alternative headline for this article would have been oh-so-inappropriate but so much fun?

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Images: Mina Yan

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